One thing you may not know about me is that I’m a professional shoe shiner. And while it’s not my only job, it is one that I’m extremely passionate about.
And a question I’m often asked by my clients is:
“How can I spot a high quality shoe”?
Well it’s my goal today to answer that very question. Below I’ll list 3 important factors to consider plus a bonus!
#1: Price
We’ve all heard the old saying “You get what you pay for “ and oftentimes, this is true. It is generally understood that one will pay for what a item is worth.
There are exceptions to this rule of course. Just consider websites like eBay, Mercari, and Poshmark.
These online marketplaces allow you to find amazing deals on those same items that would be full price in the department store.
So what factors into the price of a pair of shoes you ask? Several things such as:
- Type of leather used
- Manufacturing method
- Cost of labor
- Marketing
- Brand power
- Etc.
If you are paying full retail price for shoes, paying at least $150 is a good bet to get something good.
Additionally, if you can afford to spend between $200-$350 for a shoe you can get treat yourself something truly special.
Note: If you are shopping at a retail store and see shoes for $50, beware. The price is low and so should be your expectations .
#2: Leather Quality
Generally speaking, there are 3 types of leather quality: Genuine , Top Grain, and Full Grain.
Genuine Leather
This is the most prevalent quality of leather on the market. It’s name is deceptive in that it makes people think they are getting “real” leather.
While that part may be true, it’s not exactly what you think. Genuine leather is the leftover leather after the higher grades (that which was used for Top and Full Grain) have been taken away.
Genuine leather is comprised of several layers of low quality leather, that has been sanded down, bonded together, and then painted to appear as one uniform color and piece of material.
Top Grain
If you’re following along, you might guess that Top Grain leather can be thought of as middle-of-the road quality between Genuine and Full Grain.
So if the best parts of the leather are used in items made of Full Grain, the next best parts are used for items made from Top Grain leather.
Top grain leather can be found in many fine and luxury goods. Because of its name, Top Grain can give the impression that it’s quality is quite literally “top of the line”.
I would not hesitate at all to buy shoes made of Top Grain leather.
You are getting a great quality leather that is sure to last for a long time.
In fact, I would recommend buying only Top Grain quality products and higher.
Full Grain
Ah yes. Full Grain leather. The pinnacle of quality.
Full Grain leather is that which comes from the best part of the animal’s hide. Some customers appreciate the natural imperfections in the hide such as scars, or branding on a cow.
However other customers want leather that is virtually free of such blemishes. In such cases the leather is even more expensive and sought after.
Full Grain leather is known for its incredible longevity , as well as its ability to develop a unique patina over time.
#3: Construction Method
For the sake of this blog post, I will categorize the construction method of shoes into 3 primary categories.
- Cemented Construction
- Blake Stitched
- Goodyear Welted
Cemented Construction
This is the most affordable way for a company to make shoes. Since they save money in production, this is passed along to the customer providing them with shoes that are highly affordable.
Unfortunately they are not just cheap in price, but also in quality. Various glues are used to attach the sole of the shoe to the upper. Strenuous activity, high temperatures, and enough time can all cause sole separation.
Blake Stitched
Blake Stitched shoes are a step in the right direction when compared to cemented shoes.
What makes this form of construction unique is that the soles are stitched directly to the uppers. This stitching secures the sole to shoe in a way that glue simply cannot.
Blake Stitched shoes provide great bang for your buck, and should not be overlooked.
The primary con to Blake Stitched shoes is that they can only be resoled “so many” times. This is because each time you resole the shoe, you have to put new holes in the bottom of the upper.
Additionally, your cobbler may need a special type of machine to work on these types of shoes. This is important to know as your local cobbler may or may not be equipped to handle such things.
Goodyear Welted
Congratulations. You have made it this far. It’s time to discuss my personal favorite construction method when it comes to leather shoes. The Goodyear Welt.
When a company invests lots of money into the making of a fine pair of shoes, they don’t want to skimp when it comes to the soles.
To do so would be like having a Mercedes Benz with $50 tires. Not happening.
So when these companies want to provide a top quality shoe they finish the deal with solid soles that are attached using the Goodyear Welt method of construction.
Goodyear welted shoes are the easiest to resole, and can be resoled many more times than shoes with other kinds of construction (i.e. cemented and Blake stitched ).
The primary advantage is the robust construction. This method increases the lifespan of shoes because you can continually get them resoled by your cobbler.
A second advantage to this construction method is the weather resistance. These shoes keep your feet dry when in rainy or inclement weather as their is a barrier between your sole and the uppers (the welt).
With all that said, allow me to explain just what Goodyear Welted Construction is.
Goodyear welted shoes utilize a separate piece of leather between the upper and sole of the shoe.
This welt is quite literally sandwiched between to two pieces. Because of this welt, the upper and sole aren’t directly down together.
In conclusion this method of construction preserves the integrity of the upper and allows the shoes to be resoled many times over.
While it’s expensive to manufacture shoes this way, good companies will go ahead and pay the price.
Since they invest lots of money into the material, design, and marketing of their product, it only makes sense to continue investing into it with Goodyear welting.
Bonus: Some Brands To Look For, And Some To Avoid
Look For :
Avoid:
- Kenneth Cole
- Gordon Rush
- Calvin Klein
- Zara
- Stacy Adams
- Florsheim
- Dockers
- Gucci*
- Luis Vuitton*
- Salvatore Ferragamo *
*These companies use their brand power to heavily inflate the prices of their products. Since athletes, celebrities, and famous singers wear these brands, the companies stand to profit greatly.
However it should be noted that a $1200shoe from one of these companies is not 10x better than a shoe that costs $120 from a different brand.
This is why I spoke earlier about price oftentimes being a great indicator of a items quality. However there is a obvious limit to this “rule”.
Online Shopping
When shopping online be sure to remember the following:
“If a company doesn’t state something in its product description it’s probably because they didn’t do it. “
Curious to know if those shoes you’re looking at are full grain? But you don’t see the leather type listed in the product description? Buyer beware!
If a company spent more money to make their shoes special in some way, then why wouldn’t the advertise it? That’s my point.
Always read the product description to see if the shoes in question have the qualities you are looking for.
Conclusion
Now that you know more about how to spot well-made shoes, I wish you the best in your search for the perfect pair!
You work hard for your money and the things you buy should last. Hopefully this guide has helped to point you in the right direction.
Until next time, take care!
[…] See our post about identifying high quality leather here. […]